CFA-635 questions

[mbncp]

Hi,
sorry if these questions have been asked before

1) Do you have an ocx (win32) to communicate with the driver or some c/c++ code example that would let me write one (I need to have access to the LCD device from dhtml, jscript/vbscript) ?

2) Is it possible to have more than one device on the same PC ?

3) What's the maximal working length of the USB cable without any 'amplifier' ?

Thanks,

Marc

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[mbncp]

I just saw the USB Driver Download and Installation pages, so that answerd my first question (emulates a standard comm port)

Now I have no idea how many ports XP can handle, but I would expect at least 10, 16, 32 ?

About the USB cable length I guess it should support up to 10 meters (30 feet) ?

Marc

 

[daks001]

Hi,
sorry if these questions have been asked before

1) Do you have an ocx (win32) to communicate with the driver or some c/c++ code example that would let me write one (I need to have access to the LCD device from dhtml, jscript/vbscript) ?

2) Is it possible to have more than one device on the same PC ?

3) What's the maximal working length of the USB cable without any 'amplifier' ?

Thanks,

Marc

1) Have a look at http://www.crystalfontz.com/software/635WinTestindex.html

Does that help?

2) Yes (I have 3 on mine!)

3) the 634 comes with a 10' cable, if memory serves me correct the rule of thumb is about 15' maximum length for USB cables, *I* have not tested the CF displays at that length though, although I would be surprised if there were any problems at that length or a little bit longer.

 

[mbncp]

> Does that help?

Yes, that will do
I first though it was for the RS-232 versions only, my bad


Just one more question, I see there is mainly 2 versions, the (CFA635-YYE-KU1) yellow/green and the (CFA635-TMF-KU1) blue.

The idea is to use them on MIDI gear (guitar, keyborad) and on stage with changing lights.
In this situation I guess that the yellow/Green would give a easier readout, .. or not ?

Marc

 

[daks001]

The idea is to use them on MIDI gear (guitar, keyborad) and on stage with changing lights.
In this situation I guess that the yellow/Green would give a easier readout, .. or not ?

Marc

The yellow green might be a little bit easier, but the blue is also very easy to read, even in daylight. You'd be safe with either one. Whatever matches your equipment's theme...
Post some pics in the forums when you have them installed. We'd like to see them.

 

[mbncp]

> Post some pics in the forums when you have them installed

He he, that depends, for the guitar I will need to use my saw, so ..


Btw. I don't see the brackets for the 635.
Should I get the 633 and enlarge it a bit with a file, it looks like it should fit.

Thanks,
Marc

 

[CF Tech]

We will have brackets out shortly. I do not think it would be a good idea to attempt to modify the CFA-633 bracket, it is more different than it first appears.

 

[mbncp]

If short means less than 3 weeks, as I'm in Europe, I might just delay my order.
Could you please notify me when you get the new brackets or when I can pre-order them?

And thank you very much for your great help.

Marc

 

[reider]

It will be worth the wait for the bracket. These displays look brilliant. I have a 631 USB internally connected. A 634 on a 10` external cable and a 635 on a three foot external cable with the module fitted inside an external USB HD case, with working HD too.

The blue background of the 635 is slightly deeper than that of the 634, contrasted with white text. The spacing is close tiled so no 'gap lines' appear between the characters. The display appears to be high definition with less reflective problems than other modules. Basically, as Daks said colour is down to personal preference.

Steve

 

[mbncp]

Thanks Steve,

Good to know.

Btw. I just openned my Midi guitar, it will be very easy to install the LCD. The depth is a little larger than the width of the panel.
And it's all plastic around.
I did put a picture at the end of this link:
ezag
It was made as a 'toy' but by rewriting the software, and with an LCD panel you have a great controller for less than 300 U$.
To get a better product you will need to find 2000-3000 U$ first
Marc

 

[reider]

Unless the brackets have changed they are about 1.5" deep with a crossbar on so quite adaptable. I added some HD brackets to mine (normally used to widen to full half drive bay size) to fasten inside the case. Make sure you secure the USB cable in a couple of places to stop it pulling out of the connector. These can be fragile and you need to protect your work/investment.

Steve

 

[mbncp]

For the guitars, the LCD will be at the top (facing the chin when hold against the chest) and there is plenty of room to fasten the cables, then making it come out at the bottom, near the other cables (2xmidi + power).
Then, at least in my setup I will 'bind' the four cables together, so it's should be pretty safe.

Now, for the keyboards, I guess it should be facing the eyes, or is it possible to read the display at an angle of about 20-30 degrees ?

Speaking cables, would it be a good idea to shorten the original WRUSBY03 cable and use one or two extension cables. So the USB cable could be removed from the gear, as the other ones ?

Marc

 

[reider]

For the guitars, the LCD will be at the top (facing the chin when hold against the chest) and there is plenty of room to fasten the cables, then making it come out at the bottom, near the other cables (2xmidi + power).
Then, at least in my setup I will 'bind' the four cables together, so it's should be pretty safe.

Now, for the keyboards, I guess it should be facing the eyes, or is it possible to read the display at an angle of about 20-30 degrees ?

Speaking cables, would it be a good idea to shorten the original WRUSBY03 cable and use one or two extension cables. So the USB cable could be removed from the gear, as the other ones ?

Marc

Yes, the display when orientated in the right direction (upside down in your case) is very 'viewable' even at that angle-I just tried it to make sure. My test model is the blue with white text.

I had to cut a hole in the side of my case for the cables and rejoin as you suggest. I temporarily did it with electricians tape and electrical joining blocks but a more permanant solution would be better. My MK2 solution may utilise USB to USB connectors depending on what I have in my toolkit at the time.

Steve

 

[mbncp]

All this looks really good. Finally a nice and easy solution.
Right now, I have to change settings using the PC.
Of course I could use all these buttons, knobs and sliders on the instruments, but as I never remember what is what, it's pretty useless.

Anyway, thanks a lot for all the info and the tips.
I will start working on the ocx in the meantime.

Marc