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Connector for the CFAL12832C-W-B1 OLED Module

Grinder

New member
Can you let me know the mating connectors for the CFAL12832C-W-B1? I have never seen a 27-pin, 0.6mm pitch FPC before. Can you give me a link to the mating PCB connector?
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CF Tech

Administrator
"TAB" or "COF" style direct solder connector information

The connector on the CFAL12832C-W-B1 is a "TAB" (tape automated bonding) or "COF" (chip on flex) style flex tail mated with a "COG" (chip on glass) display construction.

This style of connector is designed to be soldered directly to corresponding pads on your PCB by using a hot-bar soldering machine. High volume contract manufacturers will be familiar with this type of construction and its assembly methods.

There are "bondmaster" machines made by APE that are designed for prototype, rework or repair work:

http://ape.com/bondmaster-smd-9000/

We have had good experience with the APE Bondmaster, and their price is very reasonable ($US4K at last check). Here are some other possible solutions:

http://www.fancort.com/Products/Hot-Bar-Soldering-Bonding.aspx
https://www.manncorp.com/hot-bar-soldering/pbs-series/index.php?auto=done
http://www.cherusal.com/tm-111-mkiii/

The process is as follows:

1) the pads on the PCB are tinned

2) the tail is aligned to the PCB using the alignment holes or visually

3) the tail is held in place relative to the PCB with kapton tape

4) the bondmaster head is lowered, applying pressure between the tail and the PCB

5) the bondmaster is "cycled", which means it heats up to the point of melting the solder and then cools down

6) the bondmaster head is raised.

It is possible to hand solder the tail to the PCB. Great care must be taken since the conductors of the tail are completely exposed in the area where they are soldered, as shown in this image:



Kapton tape should immediately be used to secure the tail to the PCB, so the joint cannot flex and break.
 
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bitmus

New member
I don't know by what measure 4K is reasonable. My slice toaster performs a similar feet and it was only $10. If you have experience prototyping surface mount components, you shouldn't have any trouble. I was tinning the pads, holding the tail in place with pliers, then using a hot-air rework gun. I have since found that simply using a soldering iron with a chisel tip has resulted in more reliable results.

I have attached two pictures. One is a carrier board I etched for breadboarding and the second is the display being driven by an xMega. The display looks dull in the second pic because flash was used but it is actually very vibrant.





You may notice small holes above the connector pads on the prototype pcb. Those are the alignment holes that match up with the tail. I like to stick copper wire through from the backside to help me keep the tail aligned while I solder.
 

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